Restoration Diary
(Click on any photo to see a larger version)
13th March to 23rd May
The reason for not
having an update over the past month or so has mainly been because there haven't
been a lot of varied things going on,
more in depth and concentrated than
varied!. Here's what's been happening:
In the last diary
our engine was about to get taken away to get built, and there it still sits
unfortunately! Terry Hird, who owns a specialist local company, injured his hand
recently so has been pretty much out of action for over a month now. I went to
see him recently and I was promised that he would at least get around to making
a start within a week or so, but such is the progress in other areas, if no
progress is made within the next 2-3 weeks, or we don't get a target return
date, we will have to consider other alternatives.
For the chassis,
once again, Justin Forwood gave us a day of his valuable time to help complete
the brake piping. With his new all singing all dancing flaring tool, we made the
decision to remove what we had achieved last time
he came over, such was the assured quality
of the new tool. It still took three
of us all day to finish, much of it being due to inconsistencies with the flares
themselves, but we are satisfied that they came out as solid as possible. There
are now three 3 foot lengths of pipe pointing up into the air where the master
cylinder will eventually sit, ready to be bent and flared accordingly.
Fuel pipes are also
on, the main one from the rear to the engine bay, and a smaller return pipe.
Although we've installed flexible reinforced tubing at the moment, this may
change to be copper piping at some stage, as the flexible pipe can sometimes
become brittle once it has been on the car for a while. This needs further
looking into so will be left where it is for the time being.
Most of the exhaust system is back on
the car now as well. Chris spent some time on the system a while ago, working
with
Autosol, and the results on the stainless sections are
superb. There are some marks where the main box has been grounded in the past,
but on the whole, it seems nice and solid. We're still on the lookout for a near
side stainless manifold. The original one off the car has been sold (exported to
the states of all places!), and we've acquired a brand new mild steel one,
courtesy of Joolz (www.joospeed.net),
which after a coat of VHT paint looks really good, but it still doesn't go with
the rest of the system. If anyone knows where one of these is going spare,
please let us know! We're getting to the stage of conceding and having one
built, but we can make do with a solid second hand one if there are any out
there!
That concludes progress on the mechanical side really - there have been other smaller things, I've taken the old master cylinder off the servo and have started to rub the rust off to prepare for a new coat of paint, (after it has had its innards replaced!) for example, but our major task these past weeks has been.....
Bodywork. Orange
bodywork to be precise. I hate it, loath it, and am going to be glad to see the
back of it. Not that I have a problem with orange in general (to pacify my Dutch
colleagues), but when you're working with it, you become orange, and everything
you touch becomes orange. Let me explain.
As I may have
bought up in a previous diary entry, we've had a very competitive
quote for getting our body re-sprayed, but to cut come costs, we decided to
prepare it all ourselves. You may have noticed from the pictures, the orange
paintwork wasn't in the best condition ever, and we had decided between
ourselves to go for red. Just a flat red, nothing metallic or fancy, but a good
solid red, in keeping with the era of the car itself. So the preparation
involved (and still involves) sanding down all the bodywork, doors and bonnet
too, right back to the gel coat of the fibreglass, then making any repairs that
are necessary, and spraying everything with primer, so it can quite simply go to
the paint shop and get it's top coat with the minimum of fuss, and expense.
Removing this
paint, however, is an unbelievably painstaking
process. Apart from large areas, the majority of
the sanding has to be done by hand, and great care has to be taken not to sand
down too far and eat into the gel coat itself. Any imperfections in the gel coat
afterwards will have to be built up with filler, and will turn into a massive
job trying to get the panels to look correct again, so the safest way to do it,
we think, is the good old fashioned cork block and paper method. We're using
aluminium oxide paper, as it it fairly quick at taking the surface off, but the
second problem is the sheer amount of surfaces, or layers, to deal with. Both
the front
wings have had layers of paint in the sequence orange, light primer,
dark primer, patches of yellow, orange, light primer, dark primer in places, gel
coat. By the time the first layer of orange is eaten through, you think you're
getting somewhere, but then when, after the primers, you get another one, the
will to live is diminishing rapidly. But, we've stuck to our guns (having almost
resorted to them too) and are now on the last areas of orange to disappear,
the rear of the car, and the large sloping panel that reaches underneath.
Everything else is down to the gel coat, and the vast majority of it done by
hand. The condition of the gel coat isn't actually to bad at all - we were
expecting star crazing all over the place, but apart from some stress cracks at
the bottom of one front pillar, and some earlier impact damage on one of the
rear wings, it seems to be remarkably intact! After all the remaining orange
has
gone, we'll have to spend quite some time going over the whole body, filling
here and there, then sanding and re-filling as necessary, to get the surface all
prepared for its primer coat. We're going to attempt the primer ourselves, with
an electric spray gun and some recommended etch primer. We need to have a good
finish to the primer, rubbed down with 800 grit wet and dry before it can be
sprayed with the top coat, but from experience, this shouldn't be
too hard to achieve, and shouldn't (touch wood!)
take too long either.
All of this
bodywork preparation process, by the way, is taking place in workshop number
two. Workshop two is
essentially a garden gazebo
with large tarpaulin sheets wrapped around to make a large tent type structure.
This is sitting on the patio in my back garden, and will hopefully provide both
protection from the elements, and stop too much orange stuff from contaminating
the rest of the garden, the house, and the local area. This does, unfortunately,
bring with it a whole new set of problems, in that due to the inclement weather
of late, the whole structure has a habit of getting lifted off the ground in the
wind, and shifting a number of feet this way and that, and swallowing anything
in its path!! I've had a number of calls from my wife while I've
been at work to say it's moved again, or collapsed again, but with a number of
stakes in the ground, lots of rope, and quite a few bricks, hopefully it will
stay in one piece until the body has been finished!!
And finally, our
latest development is the wheels. Our set of five wolfrace alloys were in a
sorry state. One, which has obviously been protected from the elements, was in
fairly good condition, and with some effort, and more Autosol, began to look
fairly good, but the remaining four were well oxidised, and needed professional
help. Just two days ago, I took them to a company local to us, Pristine Wheel
Refurbishment (01908 262826), to get them to do the necessary, involving blasting, diamond tip
turning, powder coating for the backs, and high polishing. It will mean that
we'll have to take great care of them when they are on the car, and any salt on
the roads will have to be washed off regularly, but at their work shops, I saw
several examples of their excellent work. Yes, it may cost a fair amount (£45 a
wheel!) but I think the results will be completely worthwhile. On the tyres
front, after much calling around, we've settled on a set of 195/70 VR 14's. The
originals (which, I found out last week, were all tubed, even the one marked
tubeless!!) were 185/80 14's, but to get these at all nowadays, let alone in a V
rated tyre, is a nightmare. The 195/70's have a rolling radius which is a matter
of millimeters out, so should make practically no difference to the speedo etc,
and a local tyre company has given us a price of £213 for a set of four
Fulda's, which is actually less than it costs to kit out my Astra!!
They also gave us 5% discount for being members of the TVR Car Club, so if
anyone is after similar kit, Motorcare of
Leighton Buzzard (01525 372121) could
be a good bet.
In the next diary, which should appear sooner than this one did, we're going to tackle the joy of TVR wiring, the wheels should be back, and we should have some carpets! And I might have got over my orange phobia!